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Guided Dall Sheep Hunt Gear List

A gear list for hunters going on a guided Dall sheep backpack hunt

I often get questions about what people should bring on their guided Dall sheep hunt. Putting together a gear list and packing can be a source of significant stress, or it can be fun and help build anticipation for the hunt. Hopefully this post helps alleviate some of that stress and build some of that excitement.

It should be noted that each guide and/or outfitter has their own list of items that they may provide to a hunter. I will be sure to mark these with a *. Simply asking your guide and/or outfitter should clear this up.

Most Important Items

  • Backpack - This is one of the most important pieces of your kit. Do NOT skimp on this on a backpack Dall sheep hunt. This should be a minimum of 7000 cubic inches (buy the biggest bag they have) and have a frame rated for 100+ pound loads minimum. Brands that I like: Barney’s Sports Chalet/Frontier Gear of Alaska, Stone Glacier, Kifaru, Exo Mountain Gear, Seek Outside. I am skeptical of any other brand than the ones I have listed.

  • Sleeping bag - Sleeping bag ratings have standardized across the industry as a result of EN ratings. Something rated for 15-20 degrees will be plenty for an August hunt, and a hunter coming up in September could bump down to a 0 degree bag if they were wanting something warmer. I prefer down fill as opposed to synthetic as it is 30% lighter for similar temperature ratings and, almost more importantly, it compresses down smaller than synthetic. I also prefer the down that has been treated to be hydrophobic but having untreated down is not a dealbreaker. Down sleeping bags from Western Mountaineering, Feathered Friends, and Stone Glacier are preferred.

  • Hiking boots - Stiff, waterproof, broken in, and they must FIT YOUR FEET. I cannot emphasize that last point enough. Crispi, Lowa, Scarpa, Zamberlan, Kenetrek, and many more all make boots that will get the job done, but they absolutely must fit your feet and they should be as stiff as you are comfortable with.

Packing

  • Rain cover - Available from your backpack’s manufacturer. If your pack is made from Xpac or Challenge Ultra, you may not need a rain cover, but this is only in those specific cases. Some people elect to not use a rain cover and run their gear in dry bags, which is also a viable option.

  • Lumbar pad (if separate from frame) - Some frames have this built in, others have it as an add on. It can help with fit if it is an additional accessory.

  • Water bottle pocket - Available from your backpack’s manufacturer. You want to be able to access your water without having to take your backpack off. This is not necessary if you are using a hydration bladder.

  • Duffel bag - This will be used for travel from home to base camp, and it will be left there once the hunt begins. Something 100+ liters (6000+ cubic inches) in size.

  • Rifle case - This will be used for travel to base camp, and it will be left there once the hunt begins. It should be padded.

  • Dry bag for sleeping bag - Keeps your sleeping bag dry in your backpack. Critical.

  • Dry bag for puffy layers - Keeps your puffy layers dry in your backpack. Critical.

  • Dry bag for extra clothing - I use this for keeping my extra set of clothes dry. I leave this and the clothes at spike camp when going out on a day hunt.

Sleep and Shelter System

  • Sleeping pad - Something with an R-rating above 4 for fall hunts. I have had great luck with Thermarest’s XLite and XTherm pads. Consider getting a wide version if you toss and turn and a long version if you sleep on your belly.

  • Pillow - Inflatable is lighter. I started carrying one a few years ago and I will never go back.

  • *Tent/shelter - Hilleberg or floorless would be my recommendation.

  • *Stakes - Most tents come with stakes. Make sure you bring enough for

Weapon

  • Rifle or bow - 243 and up for caliber. Heavier if you are open to shooting bear.

  • Ammunition or arrows - Sheep are relatively fragile animals, so whatever your rifle shoots best in terms of bullet selection. If you are open to shooting a bear on your trip I would bring a premium bullet like Barnes TSX, Nosler Accubond or Partition, etc.

  • Sling - Anything will do.

  • Bipod for rifle - Cannot hurt to bring. Spartan Precision makes a great product.

  • Repair kit - All of the necessary allen keys or screw drivers to take apart your rifle and the scope mounts.

Optics

  • Binoculars - Sheep hunting can be glass-intensive, but in my experience it does not have the long and intricate glassing sessions that can come with other types of hunting in Alaska. That being said, high-end “alpha” glass is always worth the investment. 8x42 or 10x42 binoculars are the tool for the job, and glass from the flagship lines of Swarovski, Zeiss, Leica, and Kowa are what I’ve had the best luck with over the years.

  • Binocular harness - Protects your binoculars, keeps them dry(er), and makes them easily accessible. Marsupial Gear, Stone Glacier, Sitka Gear, T&K Hunting Gear.

  • *Rangefinder - I prefer my rangefinder built into my binoculars, and it is very important that the software at least has the ability to compensate for extreme angles and give true shooting distance.

  • *Spotting scope - This is one of the items that your guide will have with them and it is not necessary for you to bring on your sheep hunt. If, however, you don’t want to share a spotting scope with your guide and don’t mind carrying the extra weight, spotting scopes are an awesome tool. Once again, “alpha” glass is the way to go (Swarovski, Zeiss, Leica, Kowa) and somewhere in the range of 20-60 magnification-wise and anywhere from 65-95mm objective lenses are great.

  • *Tripod and head - Only bring if you are bringing a spotting scope.

  • Tripod mount for binoculars - Only bring if you are bringing a tripod and spotting scope.

  • Tripod mount for spotting scope - Only bring if you are bringing a tripod and spotting scope.

  • Sit pad - I use 3 sections cut off a Thermarest Z Lite sleeping pad.

  • Cleaning cloth for optics

Kill Kit

  • Fixed blade or folding knife - Something for taking apart the animal that is more durable than a knife with scalpel blades. Think of a knife durable enough for light prying tasks. I prefer Victorinox.

  • Scalpel knife - Havalon blades are my preference, specifically the 60A. Any knife that accepts these blades will be fine, and I have had hunters that used the Outdoor Edge replaceable blade knives without any qualms.

  • Extra scalpel blades - They are light, so bringing 10-20 doesn’t hurt.

  • Pill bottle for discarded scalpel blades - This is my preferred way to store blades that have dulled.

  • Scalpel blade remover - The Havalon brand ones provide a bit of security when changing blades.

  • Knife sharpener - Small stone of some sort.

  • Flagging tape - 10ft should do.

  • Contractor bags - I usually bring 2-3 contractor bags with me; they have an ever-growing list of uses.

  • Nitrile gloves - Two pairs per animal you intend to shoot.

Possibles Kit

  • Repair tape (1 roll) - Tenacious tape of some sort

  • Cable ties - 8-11 inch cable ties, 5-10.

Medical Kit

  • Leukotape (1 roll) - Best tape for pre-taping for blisters.

  • Assorted bandages

  • Antibiotic ointment

  • Ibuprofen

Food and Water

  • Water bottle - 1L Nalgene UL or regular Nalgene gets the job done.

  • *Water bladder - I carry a 4L Hydrapak Seeker in case we are going to go high away from known water sources.

  • *Water filter - Honestly I do not use a water filter in Dall sheep country; in the past, I have had good luck with Platypus squeeze filters, Aquamira drops, Steripen UV lights, and LifeStraw.

  • *Stove - MSR Reactor, MSR Windburner, MSR Pocket Rocket, or any of the multi-fuel stoves from MSR or Primus are ones that I have used with good luck.

  • *Fuel - I like to carry smaller fuel cans and more of them rather than one or two larger ones just in case you get a leak.

  • *Pot and lid - Some stoves come with these as an integrated kit. If it does not, a titanium 1L pot and lid from Evernew or any other company will be fine.

  • *Long-handled spoon - Any backpacking spoon will do, with the longer-handled varieties keeping your knuckles from getting covered in freeze-dried food slop

Clothing

  • Top

    • Base layer top - I prefer wool in the 140-200 g/m2 weight, usually long sleeve with a hood.

    • Fleece layer top - Sitka’s Ambient Hoody is awesome. Any old fleece will be fine.

    • Wind layer top - I like Black Diamond’s Alpine Start Hoody. This layer provides a bit of warmth, cuts wind, and breaths when you are on the move.

    • Insulation layer top - I prefer down as it packs down smaller than synthetic in addition to it weighing less. Hydrophobic fill ideally. The bare minimum in my opinion for something that will actually be warm is the Stone Glacier Grumman (NOT the Lite), which has 5oz of down fill. I use a Rab Neutrino Pro which has over 7oz of down fill. Be sure to look at the actual specs (fill weight, fill power, and total weight) as these are the true indications (along with construction) of quality and warmth, rather than reading reviews on internet forums that tout one product or another as “an oven” or “really warm.”

    • Shell layer top - Gore-Tex Pro is top of the line (Sitka, Arcteryx, etc.). I have used Kryptek’s Altitude line as well with good results.

  • Bottom

    • Base layer bottom - Wool preferably, with full side zips so that they can be removed without removing your softshell pants. Kuiu, First Lite make wool ones, Stone Glacier makes synthetic ones.

    • Softshell layer bottom - Barney’s/Frontier Gear of Alaska’s PA-18 has served me well. Anything from any of the hunting companies work out well, along with any nylon-based pant with some spandex or elastane in it from Costco, REI, Walmart, Target, etc.

    • Insulation layer bottom - I use both synthetic and down depending on the time of year and style of hunt. For sheep, Stone Glacier’s Grumman down pant does a good job. For synthetic, Mountain Equipment’s Compressor pant; I would be partial to their 3/4 length for a little less weight and bulk.

    • Shell layer bottom - Gore-Tex Pro is top of the line (Sitka, Arcteryx, etc.). I have used Kryptek’s Altitude line as well with good results.

  • Appendages

    • Ball cap

    • Beanie - Sitka’s Blizzard Beanie is the warmest that I have used.

    • Balaclava - Preferably wool

    • Warm gloves or mittens - Synthetic mitts using Primaloft Gold like those from Hestra or Stone Glacier have always worked best for me.

    • Waterproof gloves or mittens - Showa 282-02 for a rubber fingered glove, Hestra for a 3-layer mitt.

    • Work gloves - Mechanix, Petzl, Stone Glacier all work

    • Liner socks - Wool and thin

    • Hiking socks - Darn Tough boot height, full or regular cushion

    • Waterproof socks - SealSkinz

    • Camp shoes - CROCS!!!!

    • Stream crossing setup - Wiggy’s makes a not-so-durable setup, Barney’s Glacier Socks if you are running plastic boots or if you slide them into Crocs.

    • Gaiters - I have had good luck with Kuiu Yukons.

Electronics

  • Satellite communication device - InReach

  • Smartphone (for use with satellite communication device, pictures, ebooks, music, etc.)

  • Battery pack - Anker, Dark Energy make quality ones. I prefer to bring several smaller ones rather than one large one.

  • Solar panel - Ryno-Tuff off Amazon served me well last year!

  • Any necessary charging cables

Toiletries

  • Toothbrush

  • Toothpaste

  • Deodorant

  • Medications for two weeks

  • Baby wipes

  • Toilet paper

  • Hand sanitizer

Paperwork

  • State-issued ID - Needs to be carried in the field.

  • Hunting license - Get this from Fish and Game.

  • Tags - Get these from Fish and Game.

  • Harvest tickets - Get these from Fish and Game.

  • Cash - for tip for the guide, bush pilots, etc.; also handy for travel in general.

  • Taxidermist’s contact information -

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